Stamps, Dancing and Empanadas

Started off the day with a trip to the stamp museum. A couple of days ago, we signed the kids up for a city-wide treasure hunt that requires a tour through Oaxaca's 30 museums. Each day, they are required to pick up a map/ activity sheet at a different museum and follow the instructions. At the end of each tour, they receive a stamp.
The architecture of this courtyard-museum was gorgeous. The theme of the stamp collection was insects, so the natural companion to the exhibits were amazing collections of bugs from around the world. Gigantic beetles the size of hands, rhinocerous beetles, tarantulas, scorpions, various luna moths.... Part of the activity sheet was to draw these. Another room had collection of Frida Khalo letters to her doctor after her accident. Kaya has always been enamored by this stunning Mexican artist. She sees her paintings (read here: posters and prints) in little corners everywhere in this city. They even had some beautiful photo portraits of her and Diego.
The picture of the albatross above is a giant mosaic in the children's room, composed only of only stamps!



After Kaya and Max finished most of the treasure hunt and got their stamps (how appropriate!), we headed up to the top of the hill, overlooking the city. There nests a large amphitheatre, which is home to the annual Guelaguetza festival (the celebration of traditional dancing from villages all over the region of Oaxaca). Winding our way there, Scott took a series of these graffiti stencils which adorn some part of a wall on almost every block in the city. Some are tiny; hiding in the shadow of a shutter or crack and others are scenes which take up the entire run-down wall. It is a very interesting social expression of a people very dissatisfied with their government. Have to give the governor some credit though, for allowing them to exist. Kelsey, Max I went to the photography museum last week that displayed a collection of art based on the uprising last year of educators and civil servants, which turned violent. Max was very interested in all the military helicopters, police barricades, and handcuffed people. He can now tell you about all the effects of tear gas.... :S













Because of all this very recent history and discontent, the annual kick off to the Guelaguteza of the children dancers was heavily patrolled by men in black with AK47s. Reminded me a little of the scene in Sound of Music when they are singing their last concert in Austria....
Did I already mention that on Friday, on the way home from the museum, Max and Kaya counted 30 armed soldiers or officers?



The presentation of the dancers was narrative (by child reps) fro each village, demonstrating important traditions. We saw about three different performances (very lengthy!) before it was cut off by gigantic plops of rain. Umbellas all shot up and stayed put for a hopeful quick shower, but it wasn't long before Kaya and Max were racing down the dozens of pyramid-wide steps that had brought them up the hill. The picture and video (yes, poor quality) is of the cutest little dancers of all- about two and a half years old!








At the bottom of the hill, drenched and cold, we found a street lined with empanada ladies. We huddled around the coal stove as she took our orders for filling: mole, frijoles, squash flowers, along with their famous Oaxacan, rubbery string cheese- yum! Ended with hot bowls of horchata like chocolate drink.



Today, we were on a Kelsey mission: to buy some of the famous black pottery from the village of San Barto- Coyotepec. It originated with a woman named Dona Rosa back in the forties, who did it without a pottery wheel and produced her famous black glaze. It is truly beautiful work that is internationally recognized. Her family and virtually every other villager has carried on her craft. Kelsey has been pricing these various pieces in stores all over the city for the last two weeks so she was ready for her purchase: a life-size skull for a votive candle. Although perhaps a little too Dia de Muertosy, have to admit, it's pretty cool. She picked a big one out for you too, Mary! She says it will look great over your t.v. with a candle burning in it.
Won't really detail our second two-hour bus station adventure to get there. Am winding this up because it is the second time I have written all this. Last night's entry "disappeared" this morning after having left the video uploading..... Hopefully this one stays. Scott was thinking it was deleted intentionally, due to my reference of the AK47s above........
I love you Don Gobernador. (Will that help?)