Last Full Day Before Packing Up

Alebrije Market
Kaya awoke feeling nauseated so she and Mama decided to stay back for the day while Scott, Max, and Kelsey headed off to their last market experience in a little village to the south (San Martin). It is a town known for their alebrijes, which are finely carved, fantastical figures, that are ornately painted with detailed, geometric designs.

Fair Prices
We've been pricing these alebrijes for our entire stay and are hoping that they'll be cheaper in San Martin (where most are made) since we'd like to buy a few. They're not cheap but understand that they are all hand painted and do require intricate craftmanship- for the quality works, that is. There is definitely a difference between the quality and color choices of the various sculptors and paintors.
We have found overall that although bargaining is expected to some extent on all artisan purchases, for the most part, they are relatively standard around the city. We thought we were completely overcharged the first week for our lunch (first blog entry) but we have come to find out that for food- the price is what it is- whether you're a tourist or a local. We have carefully listened when Oaxacenos ask for prices and mostly noted that it's the same we were told. Whether it's the bus fare, the vegetables or fruit in the market, empanada ladies, or the elotes man selling his corn on a stick- it is what it is. For the artisan crafts, there is an expectation that you'll bring them down about a quarter of their quoted price but once you're there, it's fixed. When I was buying my hammock in the market, a Oaxacenan (speculation on my part- could have been Mexican tourist too) came by and was quoted a higher price than what the vendor had come down for me. The guy just smiled, said "gracias" and walked away.

Elotes
Elotes are ears of corn served up on a stick, smothered with mayonnaise, dipped in cheese crumbs and sprinkled with chile powder. Scott and I request them without all the fixings, and we inevitably get a strange look from the vendor. These pictures were actually copied off the web but are easily scenes we wee every day.

Smooches
There is a friendliness here that is warm and welcoming. Even among the political dissent and protests against the government, Oaxacenos do appreciate the tourist business and go out of their way to let us know they are glad we're here. They are patient with our Spanish and very curious about why we're here and why we have a daughter who speaks so well. Max, I'm sure is tired of all the spontaneous smooching from sweet little old ladies coming up from behind him, but soon enough, he'll be able to tell them that a hand shake and hug will do fine for him instead!

Last Thoughts Before Heading Home
One thing we have come to understand is that we love having a base here in Oaxaca and are hoping to be able to do this again sometime soon. Yes, there are thousands of other places (Spanish-speaking is obviously our preference) all over the globe but now that we know a bit about Oaxaca's layers and layers of pockets to explore, we have appreciated having a base and understanding these levels a bit deeper. We have been awed at all the activities around the city for children and regret not having investigated these opportunities more on the web before we came since a lot of the series of museum day camps were already full. There are also the mountains to explore and some incredible hiking up in the large state parks still to do. We have to leave as though we will one day be back and do all that is left undone- for there is still so much left unseen all over this region. It is so fun to have Kaya able to easily interact and make her way around with out much dependency on us. Next year, after a year of Spanish immersion, Max will be close. Neither one of them blinks an eye at being left at a workshop with other little Oaxacenos. Scott and I feel safe and feel like we are really getting to know this city. Kelsey, I think has learned a lot about the culture but still very apprehensive. Perhaps for a teenager trudging along with her two little cousins and overly excited aunt and uncle, it can be exasperating; but overall, I think she has enjoyed herself too. A month is long time to be away from home!